The Story Story, or Talking Trash

Catchy titles aside, our story begins, oddly enough, in a dump in Rome, not far from the Aurelian wall.  A couple of thousand years ago, the population of Rome hovered around a million inhabitants or so (it was the largest city in the world at the time). In addition to wine, pepperoni, and garum (fermented fish sauce), Romans loved olive oil. The demand for olive oil was much greater than the local supply. So, it was imported, mainly from southern Spain, but also from North Africa, Greece, and the Adriatic coast. Olive oil was imported in "amphorae," or terra cotta flasks. 

The issue with the imported olive oil was that it left a residue inside the amphorae, rendering them unusable and necessitating their disposal. And dispose they did – by the millions. Over fifty million, give or take. This colossal heap of discarded amphorae, known as Monte Testaccio, became the eighth hill of Rome, stretching over a kilometer in circumference and towering over 160 feet in height. A staggering 1.6 billion gallons of olive oil were once stored in these now-broken vessels! 

Fast forward about eighteen centuries. The challenge in Rome was that non-catholics were not allowed to be buried in consecrated grounds or churchyards, yet they continued to pass away. In 1716, a member of the exiled Stuart Court received permission from Pope Clement XI to be buried in front of the Pyramid of Cestius, next to the Aurelian wall. In 1821, Pope Pius VII forbade further burials near the pyramid. He set aside a plot of land surrounded by a high wall to be used as a cemetery for non Catholics. The spot chosen for the non-Catholic cemetery is nestled between the Pyramid of Cestius and Monte Testaccio – the dump.

 Sadly, my blog doesn't have the space or time to list all the notable persons whose last resting place is this cemetery. Still, they include John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Edward Trelawney, and William and Emelyn Story, plus thousands of others, some incredible statuary, and dozens of cats! The Metro stop is called Piramide, on the B Line; it's easy to find. Go and see for yourself. You're welcome!

To see more images from Rome, check out my portfolio here: https://www.patkofahl.com/Rome